14
meat-basedLazio

Zozzona

A rustic, hearty Roman pasta of tomatoes, onion, and guanciale or pancetta. The name comes from the Roman dialect word 'zozz,' meaning dirty, simple man. It's a working person's dish.

The origin story

Zozzona emerges from working-class Roman cooking, meant to stretch ingredients while building deep flavour. It is unpretentious, filling, and utterly satisfying.

Also known in some versions as a ragù, Zozzona sits between a light tomato sauce and a heavy ragù. It is the working compromise.

What goes in it

Only a few ingredients

Start in the pan

Pancetta or Guanciale

First in the pan. Medium heat. Fry until the fat renders and the edges colour. That fat stays in the pan.

optional
Into the meat fat

Onion

Finely minced, into the fat the meat gave up. Medium-low heat. It cooks in the rendered fat, all the way soft and sweet before the tomatoes go in. Don't rush this; it's the foundation.

Into the pan

San Marzano Tomatoes

Crushed by hand. High heat first to reduce, then lower it. This sauce benefits from time, longer than most.

Finish, off heat

Egg yolk

Beat a yolk with a little pasta water. Off the heat, into the reduced sauce. It thickens and rounds out the tomato where the cream used to. Keep the pan off the flame. Too hot and it curdles.

Over the top

Black Pepper

Coarsely ground, at the end. Goes on the plate, not into the sauce.

What it isn't

Simple and forgiving.

Zozzona is not fussy. It rewards long, slow cooking and doesn't demand the precision of other Roman sauces. The longer it simmers, the better it becomes.

Serve with

Rigatoni

The many ridged tubes hold the dense sauce.

Penne Rigate

Another excellent choice for this hearty sauce.

Ready to cook?

These sources we trust. Each one makes it correctly.

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