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oil-basedSicilia

Pasta con le Sarde

A Sicilian sauce that refuses to be categorised. Fresh sardines, wild fennel, raisins, pine nuts, saffron — the combination reads like an inventory of the Arab traders who shaped the island's food. The sweet and the savoury are not in tension here. That is the point.

The origin story

Pasta con le sarde comes from Palermo, and it carries the history of Sicily in a single pan. The wild fennel grows on the hillsides above the city; the sardines come from the sea below. The saffron, the raisins, and the pine nuts arrive with the Arab influence that reached Sicily in the ninth century and never entirely left.

Inventor: a general's cook during the 9th-century Arab conquest. Tasked with feeding an army with only what grew wild and what the sea provided, he created the island's most singular sauce.

What goes in it

Only a few ingredients

Be generous

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Use more than you think. It carries the weight of the sardines and the fennel.

Soften

Onion

Finely chopped. Sauté until translucent. Don't let it brown — you want it soft and sweet.

The foundation

Anchovy Fillets

Melt them into the warm oil. They provide the deep salt foundation that the fresh fish sits on.

The aroma

Wild Fennel

Boil it first, then chop. Sauté with the onions. Save that water — your pasta cooks in it later.

The star

Fresh Sardines

Fresh and filleted. They only need a few minutes. Stop when they begin to break apart into the sauce.

The colour

Saffron

Dissolve it in a ladle of the fennel water. It turns the sauce a deep, royal gold.

The sweet

Raisins

Soak them in warm water first. They're the sweet half of the agrodolce balance.

The crunch

Pine Nuts

Add them for texture. They bring a resinous depth that matches the fennel perfectly.

The finish

Toasted Breadcrumbs

Toast them in a separate pan with a drop of oil. Sprinkle on top at the table. They take the place of cheese here.

What it isn't

Fresh sardines only. Tinned ones belong in the pantry.

Tinned sardines have their place, but it isn't here. You need fresh, silver-skinned sardines — cleaned, filleted, and melting into the fennel. If you cannot find them, wait until you can. The texture is the point.

Serve with

Bucatini

The traditional Sicilian choice. Thick, hollow strands that catch the fennel fronds.

Spaghetti

A reliable alternative if bucatini aren't to hand.

Ready to cook?

These sources we trust. Each one makes it correctly.

Your recipe here? Shoot an email to pasta@allanorma.com
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